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Skateboard Decks: Styles and Features

In: Build a Skateboard, How To, Products, Warehouse Skateboards

The skateboard deck is the actual board that you stand on, and they come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and weights depending on what you plan to do with your skateboard. (Our last post differentiated between long and short boards – check it out if you’re still unsure.)


Before getting into the technicalities of actually choosing a skateboard deck, it’s helpful to get to know the different styles of boards that skateboarders use. The four types are:


Old School


Shortboards are the shorter style boards and are designed and shaped for getting you in the air.
Cruisers are perfect for – you guessed it! – cruising around. Decks are typically mid-length and versatile and maneuverable.
Old school boards are usually asymmetrical with a wider nose. They’re a popular choice for those looking to skate pools, ramps, or carve the streets.
Longboards are perfect for the skater that is less interested in tricks than transporting. Some are specifically designed for downhill racing. They sit a little closer to the ground and are symmetrical in shape.


Decks vary in size, but most are between 7”-10” and made of seven-ply maple wood, bamboo, resin, carbon fiber, or plastic. Decks have changed over the years, and if you’ve been checking out different decks, you’ll notice that designers are constantly looking to improve the design. One of the best parts of building a skateboard is being able to customize its look and feel based on your needs and brand preference.


Here are some factors to consider when buying your deck:


Width | The width of your skateboard typically will depend on your height and shoe size.  You don’t want your toes or heels awkwardly hanging off your board while you’re trying to do a trick.  If you’re a younger skater, you probably won’t feel comfortable skating a board bigger than most adults skate.  Also keep in mind that width can affect how hard it is to flip certain tricks.
Length | Typically the length of a skateboard is going to be relative to its width.  If you’re comfortable with the width of the skateboard, the length is going to comfortable as well.  Cruiser style skateboards often are going to be shorter, this is because cruisers aren’t designed to perform tricks; they’re made simply for transportation and easy storage.
Wheelbase | The wheelbase (the distance between your boards inner mounting holes and indicates the span of your wheels) affects the stiffness and control of a skateboard.  The wider the wheelbase is, the more flex you’ll feel, which can make carving and turning much easier and fun.
Ply | A skateboard’s ply describes how many layers of wood the actual deck is made out of.  Most street style boards are made up of 7 ply’s of maple wood.  Longboards and downhill boards typically are thicker and made to handle more weight.  Skateboards with lower ply have more flexibility.
Concave | “Concave” refers to the actual shape and curves of the skateboard.  The ends of a skateboard, which are referred to as the “nose” and “tail” of the board, curve upwards and are important factors when it comes to “pop” and the ability for the board to be flipped.  Although they look very similar, there are a wide range of concaves and shapes.  Discovering which concave is the best for you is all based on trial and error.


We have a huge selection of all of the things you will need to build your own skateboard, and an awesome team to walk you through all of the stages of buying your first skateboard.

Skateboards: Getting Started

In: Build a Skateboard, How To, Products, Warehouse Skateboards

We get pretty excited at the sheer thought of someone getting on a skateboard for the very first time. We remember what it’s like to stare at different parts and accessories wondering what we needed, and the rush we felt buying a skateboard for the first time. How do you even begin making selections? There is a ton of opportunity and combinations for you (if you’re a beginner OR experienced!), so we’ve mapped out some key things to think about when you’re first starting out.


Deciding which type of skateboarding you’ll be doing is the first thing to consider. Are you street skating, ripping the skate park, pools or just learning your basic flip tricks? If yes, then shortboards (measuring 28” to 32”) are for you. If you’re more interested in getting from point A to B, longboards are shaped to give you a wider, more stable stance while cruising, carving, or riding downhill. This is also a good option if you’d like to eventually compete in slalom and downhill racing.


Pre-assembled skateboard completes are an awesome option if you’re new to skateboarding or aren’t quite ready to build your own custom skateboard. Warehouse has everything you need to build custom skateboards as well. This is a basic list of what you’ll need to build your own skateboard:


1. Skateboard deck
2. Skateboard trucks (two trucks)
3. Skateboard wheels (four wheels)
4. Skateboard bearings (two per wheel, eight total)
5. Skateboard hardware (set of eight bolts and nuts)
6. Skateboard grip tape
7. Riser pads (set of two)


From there, you’ll make some more decisions: decks, trucks, wheels, bearings, etc. Warehouse has the largest selection of skateboards and skateboard parts, and our main guy Graham lives and breathes skateboards. If you ever have questions about the process or our products, hit us up on the Warehouse Skateboard Facebook or give us a call.


Santa Cruz x Star Wars Collection

In: Fun Stuff, Industry News, New Arrivals, Products, Warehouse Skateboards

The force is strong with Santa Cruz Skateboards.  For the first time in history, Santa Cruz has teamed up with Lucasfilm to provide skaters and Star Wars collectors around the world with a Star Wars collaboration series.  Santa Cruz is know for some of the most iconic graphics in skateboarding history, so these decks and completes are sure to become highly sought after.  There will be four decks to choose from including Darth Vader, Boba Fett, Slave Leia and Han Solo.   Also available will be 5 different completes to choose from, including a Yoda Cruiser, Boba Fett Cruiser, Chewbacca Cruiser, Stormtrooper Downhill Longboard and a Darth Vadar Pintail Longboard.  If you’re a collector, be sure to grab one quickly, as these will sell out fast.

completes Santa Cruz x Star Wars Collection

Santa Cruz / Star Wars Completes





Fix A Broken Kingpin

In: Demos and Tours, Fun Stuff, Products, Warehouse Skateboards

If you’ve fallen victim to a weak or old kingpin, you may have noticed your truck breaking into two parts recently.  If you’re wondering if it’s possible to continue to use them, you’ve come to the right place!  If you uninstall the halved truck from your skateboard, we’re betting that you’ll find the bottom half of the broken kingpin hiding underneath your truck.  If this is the case, grab a hammer and go ahead and gently knock that old kingpin out of the truck’s base plate.  If your kingpin is broken with the bolt stuck inside of the base plate, simply knock find an object (preferably a flat head screwdriver) and hit it with a hammer until it falls out.  Now that your old kingpin has been knocked out, you can now install that shiny new kingpin.  The easiest method for installing a kingpin that we’ve found is to take two bricks or cinder blocks and set them beside each other, leaving just enough room to support the truck’s base plate on each side.  Set the base plate upside down between the two supports and insert the new kingpin.  It should be a tight fit, so you may have to tap it into place using your hammer.  Once the kingpin has been pushed all of the way in, go ahead and assemble the remaining bushings and hanger.  Tighten the kingpin nut so that it feels fairly the same as the other truck.  You may have to give your skateboard a few pushes and continue tightening the kingpin until your board rides straight.


size trucks Fix A Broken Kingpin



How To Clean Your Bearings

In: Demos and Tours, Fun Stuff, Products, Warehouse Skateboards

Due to the recent terrible weather we’ve been dealt with this winter season, we thought it would be a good idea to remind you guys on how to properly clean your bearings.  When we skateboard outside or in a dusty skate park, we tend to expose our bearings to all types of dirt, dust and water.   If these elements make their way into your bearings it can cause friction, which makes your bearings noisy, slow and rough.  In most cases if your bearings aren’t too badly damaged you can use a bearing lubricant to get them spinning like new again.  If your bearings seem rusty or permanently “frozen” it’s always a safer bet to replace them with a new set to avoid throwing yourself off your board or not making it complete over the hand rail (nobody likes to rack.)

Cleaning Instructions:

  1. Gently remove the non-contact rubber shield on the back of the bearing.  You can do this using a push pin or small flat head screwdriver.  Make sure you be careful as to not damage or bend the shield…it should pop out easily so don’t force it too hard.  You can clean the rubber shield but don’t use any type of solvent.  All you really need to do is wipe it down with warm soapy water and a lint free cloth.  Make sure that they’re dry when you reinstall them, don’t install them if they’re still wet.
  2. If you own Bones Bearings, you will most likely see their signature “cage” retainer.  According to Bones Bearings, the best way to remove this cage is to “take a straightened paper clip or similar object and place it in the spaces between the ball seats, then push the ball retainer out.  Pushing alternatively in several different spots is often helpful.  We recommend ONLY pushing the retainers out.  If you pry them out, you will damage the ball cavities, ruining the surface of that cavity.  This will, at a minimum, create more vibration and a slower bearing, and at worst, cause the entire bearing to fail.  When you remove the cage, the balls can all shift over to one side and in some cases, may fall completely out of the rings.”
  3. If you have chosen to remove the bearings and the ball retainers, soak them in your cleaning solution (do not use WD-40, as this will damage the bearings permanently.)   We recommend using a metal jar or can, as the bearings can crack thin glass.  Gently swish the container around so that the bearings get moved around by the cleaner; this will make sure that the entire bearing ball gets cleaned and scrubbed.  If the solution you’re using gets dirty, continue to replace it until you can swish the bearings around in the solution without it looking dirty (this means your bearings are squeaky clean.)  If you decided to go the easy route and purchase one of our bearing lubricants, please revert to the instruction methods provided on the bottle.
  4. Once your bearings nice and clean, be sure to dry them immediately.  The most effective way to dry them is with a can of compressed air.  Using compressed air tends to be the best way to completely rid your bearings of dirt, grease and solvents.
  5. If you uninstalled the cages from your bearings, use a paperclip to spread the ball bearings out evenly and insert the cage so that it sits nice and correctly.  Once it’s snapped into place, spin the bearing to make sure that it spins smooth and freely.  If they don’t spin correctly, uninstall the cages and make sure that they’re installed correct (each ball should be over a ball seat.)  If they are correctly placed and still not spinning freely, uninstall the cages and repeat the cleaning process.
  6. Once your bearings are back in place and spinning freely, go ahead and lube them up.  Only use lubricant specified for bearings…again, do NOT use WD-40.  If your bearings are made of steel, use two drops or so of bearing lubricant.  If you’ve got Ceramic bearings, you’ll only need one drop to do the trick.
  7. After you’ve added lubrication to your bearings, go ahead and reinstall the rubber shields on your bearings.  This process can be done using your thumb and a flat surface.  Simply line up the bearing shield  with the open bearing and press firmly, making sure it sits flat in your bearing.
  8. Reinstall your bearings!  Do not use a tool that puts direct pressure onto your bearing shields, as they can dent and break easily, ruining your bearing.  Most skate shops will have a bearing press available if you can’t seem to get them pushed all of the way onto the wheel.  We like to slide a bearing onto a skateboard truck axle vertically, and then push on the wheel until it sits flush in the bearing seat.

We can’t tell you enough how important it is not to use WD-40 with your bearings.  Although WD-40 seems like an obvious answer to lubing up bearings, WD-40 actually dries bearings out and leave a residue within the bearings, which can attract more dirt and dust.bearing exploded lg How To Clean Your Bearings